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Get your Metal Skid Plates here!

56K views 170 replies 31 participants last post by  PAPAFRED 
#1 ·
Well not yet but i am pretty far into developemt and i wanted your input before i pulled the funding trigger.

The plate would start at the front of the front subframe and run back to the rear transfer case support just past the first Cats. 50+ inches in total length.

I have the template made and it fits nice and snug:


Material:
I really wanted to go with a stainless but the cost would quite litterally be 3 times as much as a mild steel. If you absolutely have to have stainless for the bling/baller/no rust ever factor PM me and i can get you an exact price.

I decided to go with a basic Mild steel as it is readily available, not brittle but not too soft. The thickness will be 1/8 of an inch thick. I feel with the great support that the plate would have with the subframe this is more than enough to protect the vital bits under there.

Powdercoating will ensure that it looks good and will stand up to some abuse and is included in the below pricing structure. If you like the all natural look the price can be adjusted for no powdercoating on a case by case basis.

What You Get:
I hit the trails at least once a week and fully plan on trail testing this thing before i send it out. If a ***** in its armor is found, it will be changed and retested before i make the ones to be sent out.



I will provide you will all necessary: nuts/bolts/washers/spacers/instructions and maybe even a candy bar for when the job is finished.

If you need any technical assistance i will be an email or phonecall away.

If this first run goes well, i will develope rear and fuel tank plates as well but that is a long way from being considered at this point.


Payment:
I prefer to take all payments over paypal so that we are both protected. Once the prototype is tested and I am happy with its performance i will open up for orders. Once i have recieved full payment from 5 people I will beign fabricating them. If for some reason we do not reach 5 units then i will eather refund your money or allow you to send about 20% more and I will still make you a great skid plate!

The reason for the price difference is because my supplier is giving me a quantity discount up to 10 pieces. If we can get 15 orders, the price could adjust down by 15%

Preliminary Cost Structure:
I am shooting for a cost of $400 out the door powdercoated black or silver with 5 orders. Custom colors may be had but may add $5 to $10 to the cost. If you DONT want it to be powdercoated i can adjust the price accordingly but would handle that on a case by case basis.

Actual shipping charged will be charged on a case by case basis.

Selling Individually: $480
Batch of 5-10: $400
Batch of 15: $340

I hope to make the prototype this weekend and test it next weekend, once it is made and i am happy with how it performs i will start taking orders.

Give me some feedback guys! I want everyone to get what they need at a fair price.

-Sam Craven
 
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#4 ·
i may have to throw in some items from luling city market you keep trying to talk me into going to.
Would be quite a bit of throwing given what I presume it would cost to get to 99709. Nevertheless, it used to be a good place to get brisket etc. It's on Richmond near the Galeria if I remember. I'm putting an order in for some more rub as I'm running low...

siberian
 
#6 ·
Sam, curious as to the mounting of this skid plate. I have one of the few Dakar skid plates and might have some insight on what to change in terms of mounting. I can also get better measurement on my skid plate, especially since it is sitting in the garage at the moment.

If this is successful, I would be interested in talking with you about fabbing some kind of rocker panel plate or slider.
 
#7 ·
I'm definitely interested.

A few questions:

Would there be access to drain plugs?

How will it mount? (i need to go under the treg and pull off the plastic to see what's under there)

Consider a 2-piece design?

Does this cover the area where the back of the TC is hanging?

How about offering a coating option that's just black primer so it won't rust during shipping/transport?

Consider rolling the edges slightly, or adding some "lip" to increase the strength?

I think 1/8th inch is a great thickness for what most will do with this vehicle, but this car is heavy, so use lot's of mounting points. Maybe offer a 3/16" option (or just double material in key areas)?

Thanks for taking this on!
 
#8 ·
Aircooled: PM sent

As a quick aside, Currently i am am planning on being at the touareg rally and may have room to bring some along with me if you want to save on shipping.

JJvanden: Answeres to questions below in Red

Would there be access to drain plugs?
No, i dont see a reason to make a hole that can collect mud and dust and leave the underside exposed. It should remove in the same amount of time or less than the plastic one.

How will it mount? (i need to go under the treg and pull off the plastic to see what's under there)

It will mount with factory locations, if for some reason brackets or custom mounting is needed it will come with all necessary hardware.

Consider a 2-piece design?
Not sure why it needs one?

Does this cover the area where the back of the TC is hanging?
I will need to look and double check, but i dont bellieve so. I may be able to add to it to do this, but that part of the transfer case is so far up there, that if you manage to lay the truck on a rock that is capable of getting up there, im not sure a skid plate would help, but i will double check.

How about offering a coating option that's just black primer so it won't rust during shipping/transport?
I can shoot some rust inhibitor primer on there for a tiny charge

Consider rolling the edges slightly, or adding some "lip" to increase the strength?
The edges and ends are fully supported by the subframe and this will not be neccessary, i will however look into price difference if i have a few running lengthwise down the middle.

I think 1/8th inch is a great thickness for what most will do with this vehicle, but this car is heavy, so use lot's of mounting points. Maybe offer a 3/16" option (or just double material in key areas)?
I will make it to a different thickness that a user specifies but expect a substantial cost difference. Most people will want 1/8" so that is what the GB is for.

Thanks for the great questions!


 
#9 ·
The only consideration for a two piece design is weight. You'll be getting a work out lifting it back INTO position to line up with the holes when you remove it. Might want to think about it once you get the weight for a 3/16 unit.

siberian
 
#10 ·
Weight and size. Taking my one piece plate off now is interesting for one person to do. Actually, off is easy. A set up ramps, suspension set to Xtra and a five gallon bucket support everything nicely. Back on is harder.
 
#12 ·
But not impossible. I think a two piece could be easy to do. I'm communicating with him on PM with a run down of what I have and what I think could be done differently.
 
#13 ·
Don't forget that a single piece, other than the "weight" is very long and unwieldy. Maneuvering it into place and holding it whilst you try and screw in the bolts will be hard (not impossible, but...). I think a two piece does have it's advantages.

Forget the PM, just take I-10 and head into Houston for a face to face (then stop off at Lulling City Market for some ribs or brisket :cool: )

siberian
 
#14 ·
a two piece unit may be easier to install but it would require more mounting points that are robust and those are hard to come by on the underside without welding, and i am going to do everything i can to make sure that welding is not required.

If these things prove to be a beast to lift in place and line up, I may cut a hole and install a trap door of sorts that mounts top side and can swing out of the way or oil drain and filter replacement.
 
#15 ·
Having taken mine off countless times, it's a pain to maneuver the plastic stuff out of the way. Then you get deluged by dirt and rocks not to mention the THUMP when it drops to the floor. If you have a metal skid 3/16 you better watch the THUMPS cuz it could cause some ouches and gouges. Making two pieces, makes it manageable.

I wouldn't bother with a trap door, as the oil wanes you'll get oil on the inside. Just my 2 cents

siberian
 
#18 ·
Appreciate the offer ENRGZR and will keep it in mind. Will be making another Anchorage trip in early April, can we get together this time? I'll forward times.

ENGINer, sent you a PM, no obligation :cool:

siberian
 
#19 ·
I really want one... just not right now. I bought my Touareg in August, and since then I've spent almost $5,000 in repairs and maintenance bringing it back up to spec. I have a few other projects I'm working on so the Touareg isn't getting any more money thrown at it for a couple months.

However, there are a few mods/upgrades I want to do in the near future, and a skidplate is very high on the list. I'm planning on doing the Colorado Rally this summer, so I will definitely need one before then, but I just can't do it immediately.
 
#20 ·
I forgot to mention, I would probably get a stainless one, if possible. I'm not planning on beating up my Touareg, that's what Jeeps are for. But I will use it for moderate offroading, and correct me if I'm wrong, but the non-stainless skid probably will get scratches and the finish will wear off, right?

Look at this one, for example:
 

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#21 ·
Powder coating is pretty rugged, I have used it on everything from car parts to pit equipment on the race teams and it stands up to a pretty good amount of abuse.

I would assume that the majoroty of the scratches would score the color but not get down to the steel.

As i said before, you you are willing to pay the premium for stainless i would be more than happy to make it for you. It would certainly look great.
 
#22 ·
A friend and I were looking to do one out of aluminum for weight savings. The way he was planning on doing it I was still going to have the strength of steel but not the weight or worry of rusting.
 
#34 ·
Another vote here for a standard alloy config...

In this part of the snowbelt, the de-icers (e.g. salt) eat bare steel for lunch. So any ding/scrape that breaks the finish (on either side) would have to be regularly touched up.

A few extra bucks upfront could be worth it for the longevity and ease of maintenance.
 
#23 ·
1/4" aluminum would definately do that trick, but it makes munting a bit more tricky as the bolts necessary would be much longer and still the same diameter.

I cann supply some thicker hardware but i would have to supply some bungs that would need to be welded in place on the subframe. I really want to supply something that your shadetree mechanic can install without having to weld.

The cost of Aluminum would certainly be higher as well. If there is higher interst in aluminum i would not mind at all going down that road.

Edit: Looks like Alum comes in just under Stainless.

EST cost for stainless finished about $800

EST cost for Alum about $700
 
#24 ·
Yeah, cost was the reason I have not had it done yet. I have other priorities at the moment. :) I still may have him do it for me if I can get the money together.
 
#26 ·
Umm, not sure I would spend the money on it for an '11 if it was me. Unless you want if for protection of stuff you may run over on the highway.
 
#27 ·
Aww don't pick on the '11's, Yeti!

Long time ago, I actually did lose my oil pan in my old ('87?) Golf...hit some chunk of metal a rig threw off.

Car in front of me went right over it. I could do the same or risk hitting the center wall...so I followed. Could see the oil trailing me on the highway.
 
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