Brake Controller Basics + Prodigy Solution - Page 7 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #61 of 135 Old 03-11-2012
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All done! Thank you very much gentlemen.

The controller tells me there is no trailer attached. So I guess it's working.
For the trailer battery, is it the extra power wire I have that I connect to the battery through pin 2 on the 7 pin plug? I just checked the schematic, so yes it is.
Neil

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post #62 of 135 Old 03-11-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signon View Post
All done! Thank you very much gentlemen.

The controller tells me there is no trailer attached. So I guess it's working.
For the trailer battery, is it the extra power wire I have that I connect to the battery through pin 2 on the 7 pin plug? I just checked the schematic, so yes it is.
Neil
If you are just using a 7 pin on the trailer side, pin 2 is the go. If you have the full 12 pins (7+5) you also have pin 8 as an option. Just depends on how the trailer is wired.
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Also note that the power doesn't go direct to the battery, the Carlisle documentation mentions a "charger".
It's good that the controller says there is no trailer attached (if there isn't one attached ).
As Siberian said, you should also hear the relay click in when you put your foot on the brake.

Good luck with the commissioning and good luck with the fish

That must be a decent sized boat if you have a breakaway system.
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post #63 of 135 Old 03-11-2012
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Relay clicks!
I'm not sure what the trailer wiring looks like. I have just looked at the same pics you show. I also just remembered that I have the trailer 'load' module to attach as well. I checked and, well, I'll be. It seems to be fully wired for electric trailer brakes and power.
For the breakaway power I might buy some anderson plugs just in case.
The boat is an '09 Wittley CR2590. It replaces a Whittley 580. It's waiting for me in Brissy.

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post #64 of 135 Old 03-11-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signon View Post
...
The boat is an '09 Wittley CR2590. It replaces a Whittley 580. It's waiting for me in Brissy.
Nice !
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post #65 of 135 Old 03-15-2012
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I just remembered why the "need" for constant power on the Tekonsha. According to the booklet the constant (non switched) 12v supply is to prevent the unit from forgetting the settings and thus having to reset after every shut off.

For the P3 at least this is bogus. It does remember even if you don't supply a constant source of power. To avoid any other potential source of battery drain, I connected mine to a switched source and it works fine without the potential battery drain problem associated with a permanent live connection.

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post #66 of 135 Old 03-15-2012
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Towed my boat over 600km to home yesterday.The prodigy worked like a charm. Some minor adjustment of the boost because of the wet roads in Brisbane. The car handled it well. 8.5l/100 on the way down and went to 15.5 coming home. I reckon it would of been higher if I'd have zeroed the outputs for the trip home. I found that if I turned off the cruise control I could get better economy and a smoother ride.




The P3 turns itself off after some time. I've put mine under the dash just off my right knee and used the quick release.

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post #67 of 135 Old 03-15-2012
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I'll say it again, nice

With the current weather I'm surprised you didn't fly down and cruise back in the boat.
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post #68 of 135 Old 03-15-2012
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I had a fairly good weather window. Pouring in Brisbane and just a bit of drizzle elsewhee on the way back north. The gps took me on a short cut around west of Gympie and the roads were empty but narrow and then oh, what's this. Dirt for about 10km. That didn't save any time at all. Now need to get the boat serviced and in the water.

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post #69 of 135 Old 06-10-2012
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Hi guys, I think I have read and re-read every brake controller thread and still have some questions. I have a 2009 TDI with factory tow kit and we have a new boat >2.5 tonne on it's way with electric over hydraulic brakes. A mate is doing the controller install for me next weekend and has obtained a P3 and I have the wires and plug from VW. The trailer is coming from the US and the manufacturer said he has pre wired with a "flat 12 pin connector".

My questions are:

1. The brake actuator also needs a 12v supply I assume there is nothing to tap into down the back of the car and we'll have to run a new wire from the front - is this best done via a wire tapped fuse as c4ar mentioned earlier in this thread?


2. the car currently has a round 7 pin so we'll have to replace it a flat 12 pin. Will the flat 12 pin still allow us to connect a flat 7 pin for towing our other trailer?

3. I know nothing about relays, what is the best (not noisy) type to use?

thanks

Darren
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post #70 of 135 Old 06-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren02 View Post
1. The brake actuator also needs a 12v supply I assume there is nothing to tap into down the back of the car and we'll have to run a new wire from the front - is this best done via a wire tapped fuse as c4ar mentioned earlier in this thread?
Don't know if there is a 12V aux supply on the standard VW plug (I don't have one). Even if there is, it may only be activated when the trailer is attached.
Where you access the 12 V supply would depend on what the maximum load is. I think wire tap fuses go up to 20A. You can also use an in-line fuse with a spade connector inserted at the fuse box. I find this better because if the fuse blows you can replace it with a regular fuse. If a wire tapped fuse blows you need to get another wire tapped fuse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren02 View Post
2. the car currently has a round 7 pin so we'll have to replace it a flat 12 pin. Will the flat 12 pin still allow us to connect a flat 7 pin for towing our other trailer?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren02 View Post
3. I know nothing about relays, what is the best (not noisy) type to use?
Usually smaller = quieter.
For this application there is minimal load on the contacts so you can use a small relay.
If it's still too noisy you can always wrap it up in foam/rubber.
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