Brake Controller Basics + Prodigy Solution - Page 6 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #51 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Absolutely, the blue is the actuator and you will need a relay.

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post #52 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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OK. One wire goes nowhere. Its fed to the back of the car but has no power. The other goes to the double decker plug. Normal 7pin flat with 5pin on top. The red power goes to battery power on the 5pin side. I am assuming this will have to go to the power pin on the 7pin side to supply power to the aux brake battery on the trailer.
I'm still not sure if the red/yellow has power all of the time like mine has. I think I'll assume it does.
Anyway, in with the relay. I'll let you know how I go. The boat is waiting.

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post #53 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Would you mind telling us the color of the wires? Please read the very thorough write ups done on the Tekonsha P3, it has all the wiring information you need as well as color coding and wiring instructions I wrote for those who do not have the harness and need to feed the wires from the back (2 wires - a blue one and a red power one). Make sure you connect the relay properly. You should hear a click every time you press on the brakes (whether you have a trailer connected or not).

Good luck

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post #54 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Do you mean the ones to the rear of the car? These were put in by the previous owner. One is live and the other a spare.
The connector under the dash has the correct colours as on the tekonsha bulletin and the P3 instructions. My main concern was constant power to the red/yellow.

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post #55 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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OK Neil, it's all starting to make some sort of sense.
Your installation should be as per the tech bulletin but because you have hydrastar brakes you also need a "keyed" 12V supply going to the trailer to charge the breakaway battery.
Sounds like the previous owner had already done that and he also pulled an extra wire through in case it was needed for getting the brake peddle signal. It wasn't needed because you have the VW wiring.
I assume you have a diagram like this for your hydrastar unit:
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The "Solid Blue" will be coming from the P3 via the VW wiring.
The "Solid Black" is the keyed supply for charging the breakaway battery and the previous owner has pulled a wire through for this.
Once again it's OK for the P3 to be powered all the time, but Carlisle advise that the battery charging supply is keyed. I guess to avoid flattening the vehicle battery when you're stopped.
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post #56 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Which was my point and why there really is not need to supply constant power.

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post #57 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siberian View Post
Which was my point and why there really is not need to supply constant power.

siberian
If you're convinced that you'll never need trailer brakes when the ignition is off then, no.
Tekonsha actually recommend a direct connection to the battery and the use of an auto reset circuit breaker rather than a fuse to give you the best chance of having power available for braking at all times.
I have used continuous power and an auto reset CB on my installation.
Consider the situation where you pinch and short out the trailer cable while parking, then you head off down a mountain. With an auto reset CB you've still got a chance of having full braking.
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post #58 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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I hear you, but given the finnickyness of electronics on the Treg, you're more likely to be stuck with a dead battery than a pinched cable. But then again I don't have a Hydrastar either.... But good point

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post #59 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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All good info guys. I just need to wire up the relay and move the live wire to the 7pin and I should be all set.
What initially made the install even more confusing is that there is a sensa brake unit under the dash as well and when I traced it, it was never wired up at the back of the car. When I got the car I thought that I was set but now I know!
Neil

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post #60 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Quote:
I hear you, but given the finnickyness of electronics on the Treg, you're more likely to be stuck with a dead battery than a pinched cable. But then again I don't have a Hydrastar either.... But good point
Well, the score here so far is I have had a pinched cable (not kidding, it has really happened ) and, so far, no problems with battery drain.
I have a P3 wired direct to the battery on my previous vehicle and it has sit for up to 8 weeks without the battery going flat.
I'm not saying that using switched power to the controller is totally unsafe, I just think that people should be given all the reasoning and then they can make their own decisions.
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