Brake Controller Basics + Prodigy Solution - Page 5 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #41 of 135 Old 09-26-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvair View Post
Prodigy RF - does anyone have any feedback after the installation?

How well does it work with electric brakes and LED's.? Any specific install instructions would be appreciated. I am another guy who is getting a new Trailex to tow my Porsche. Seems dealers do not have any info what the new Touareg's require on how to hook up aux brake controllers. Many thanks.

Might buy the Prodigy RF for my 2010 treg tomorrow. Either that, or pay the dealer $580 to install the Reese Discovery (timed - not proportional) controller. Anyone tried the Prodigy RF? Seems like a better unit (if it works out of the box) than the legacy timed unit. Plus, $200 cheaper.

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post #42 of 135 Old 09-27-2011
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Not only $200 cheaper, but also far more valuable in terms of being able to sell it later or transfer it to a future vehicle.
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post #43 of 135 Old 09-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ72 View Post
Might buy the Prodigy RF for my 2010 treg tomorrow. Either that, or pay the dealer $580 to install the Reese Discovery (timed - not proportional) controller. Anyone tried the Prodigy RF? Seems like a better unit (if it works out of the box) than the legacy timed unit. Plus, $200 cheaper.
There have been several members who have invested in the RF Brake Controller. As I plan to. The two that I have read accounts for stated that the unit has to be paired using a different vehicle other than the Treg. For some reason The Treg would not allow the initial pairing. After another vehicle is used for the pairing they both confirmed the units work flawlessly.
I have a P3 that will be sold to avoid mounting a brake controller inside the Treg.
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post #44 of 135 Old 01-15-2012
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Add me to the list. I have a late 06 V10 TReg delivered in 2007 and I cannot find that damn plug. I pulled the fuse cover and the dash undertray and searched for two hours with fingers, torches and mirrors. I really dont think it is there unless it has been wrapped into the main wiring loom with the black cloth tape. And I don't want to cut that up unless I know where to look.

I'm going to go the wireless RF route.

Regards,

Pete

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Originally Posted by Nightwatch View Post
I know it has been posted in several places that some models do not have the harness. And I can tell you, that after over an hour of searching all over, behind the major factory bundles, up under the dash itself, and even feeling around with my hands where I can't see - there is no bundle/harness. I also had VW print out an entire manifest of everything that was installed at the factory (not the standard factory options window sticker, but the entire manifest that shows all the behind the scenes log created when the specific vehicle is built) and there is nothing there that shows a harness being installed.

My touareg in an 07 built at the end of 06. It looks like a Touareg 2 (new grill and lights, new rails on top). I think it might be an in-between model as I know they started making changes this year before they started calling them T2s.
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post #45 of 135 Old 01-15-2012
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I didn't have the loom either. I just ran the two wires (rear right side inside fender well) and connected them to the Tekonsha proportional brake controller. No problems, towed 7,400 pounds this past summer 3,500 miles from BC, up the Yukon and back to Fairbanks.

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post #46 of 135 Old 03-09-2012
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Steve O??

Following this intently and all ready to wire things up. Whoever owned my car before me has done some work and I have a question about the factory plug under the dash.
Does the RED/YELLOW wire have power to it all of the time?
Mine does and the previous owner has taken a wire from that to the back of the car for power to the trailer plug.
Following the Tekonsha bulletin can I come off this wire for the HOT wire to the relay that needs to go in?
I dislike car electrics because I'm always afraid of letting the smoke out of the wires. And everybody knows that when the smoke is gone the car won't work!

Thanks Neil

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post #47 of 135 Old 03-09-2012
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Neil, it's easy to check with a voltmeter.... there is no need for the brake controller to have direct power (non switched) to go to your relay since you only need it when the car is running...

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post #48 of 135 Old 03-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signon View Post
Following this intently and all ready to wire things up. Whoever owned my car before me has done some work and I have a question about the factory plug under the dash.
Does the RED/YELLOW wire have power to it all of the time?
Mine does and the previous owner has taken a wire from that to the back of the car for power to the trailer plug.
Following the Tekonsha bulletin can I come off this wire for the HOT wire to the relay that needs to go in?
I dislike car electrics because I'm always afraid of letting the smoke out of the wires. And everybody knows that when the smoke is gone the car won't work!

Thanks Neil
Hi Neil,
There should be no problem using the RED/YELLOW as the hot wire for the relay. I have a tekonsha P3 and it works fine with power all the time. In fact it expects it.
However, it isn't a good idea to have this wire also supplying power to the trailer plug. (I'm assuming you mean the Auxillary/Reverse pin that is commonly used to power accessories on the trailer). This puts the trailer accessories on the same fuse as the trailer brakes and if it overloads, you have no trailer brakes.
If you do need the live wire to the trailer then supply it from it's own fuse. You can use a wire tapped fuse available from Jaycar in Rockhampton, Cat No: SF5114. Just find a spare position in fuse box with power all the time or accessory power as desired.
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Good luck keeping the precious smoke in !
It's expensive stuff

Edit:
Just reading through that tech bulletin again, they do specify that the "hot wire" should also have it's own fused supply. So if you were heading down to Jaycar anyway you could pick up another wire tapped fuse for that too. (I think the smallest they have is 10 Amp).
Still, I don't think you would have any issues just using the RED/YELLOW. The relay contacts are just providing a signal to the tekonsha to say you've hit the brakes. There would be minimal current drawn.
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post #49 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Thanks guys.
I need to double check because there are two aux wires heading down the back. The live one coming off the red/yellow is fused. From what you say c4ar, I think I'll divert the hot one to the tekonsha and re-fuse the one heading down the back.
OR, can I go ahead without the relay?
I'm using a tekonsha p3 and carlilse/hydrastar brakes. Is it the blue wire that supplies the power to the battery on the trailer?

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'11 Polo TDi.
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post #50 of 135 Old 03-10-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signon View Post
Thanks guys.
I need to double check because there are two aux wires heading down the back. The live one coming off the red/yellow is fused. From what you say c4ar, I think I'll divert the hot one to the tekonsha and re-fuse the one heading down the back.
OR, can I go ahead without the relay?
I'm using a tekonsha p3 and carlilse/hydrastar brakes. Is it the blue wire that supplies the power to the battery on the trailer?
Blue is usually the brake actuator not the trailer battery. Could be different with electric over hydraulic brakes, I'll need to check.
Let me know what type of trailer plug you are using (Eg, 7 pin round, 7 pin flat etc.) and we'll have a go at doing a diagram.

The relay is there to condition the brake signal from the Touareg. It may work without it but it also may not work or may partially work. Can only be sure that it will work with it.

BTW, you say there are "two aux wires heading down the back", where is the other one connected to ?
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