Brake Controller Basics + Prodigy Solution - Page 4 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #31 of 135 Old 06-16-2011
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I just installed the P-3 using the diagram that benhchang did in post 19. Not getting any errors, but have to find a trailer to test it on. The display on the P-3 is on all the time, even when the car is off. I even tried removing the key for the area, made no difference. This is on an MY10 TDI with keyless entry and start. Is that to be expected? If so, I can always disconnect it when it's not being used.
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post #32 of 135 Old 06-16-2011
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DAH after rereading the instructions , I see that the unit is designed this way and goes to "sleep" after 15 minutes of inactivity.

Bruce

MY10 V6 TDI White/Beige, air suspension, tech plus, lux, tow package.
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post #33 of 135 Old 06-16-2011
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For those of us without a connector, any reason we should bother with a relay rather than just connect directly from the wires to controller?

Anything on the build sheet that would point to having the anti-sway control?

siberian

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post #34 of 135 Old 06-18-2011
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I'd like to add one last item to this.

The Tekonsha P3 install instructions clearly state that wire gauge for the brake controller (blue) is critical. I initially installed 18 gauge prior to receiving the unit. After talking to Marty and reading the instructions, I see that the minimum gauge required is 14. According to the instructions, using other gauge wire may cause incorrect readings or erratic braking. So please make sure you use the correct gauge...

and I'm thus pleased to report that I will be doing a re-install of the blue wire ... but as with everything, it should be easier the second time around...

siberian

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post #35 of 135 Old 06-18-2011
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Siberian.

You're right about the wire gauge for the Blue wire. When I saw the heaviness of the blue wire and lightness of the VW "gold plated" ie expensive wires, I cut it very short and used the blue wire for most of the length. The time you get in trouble is with long runs of light wire for heavy current devices. By keeping the wire very short and using the blue wire for most of the run, and it is a short run anyway, it will take the power lost without overheating or burning.

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post #36 of 135 Old 06-18-2011
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My 08 V8, as I said, does not have the connector under the dash so I had to pull the blue wire all the way from the back to the front and thus an 18 gauge was just not adequate.

I also want to clarify that the 14 gauge is for a single or two axle trailer. Three or four axle ones require a minimum of 12 gauge.

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post #37 of 135 Old 06-19-2011
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Siberian

I forgot that you don't have the wiring in your unit. You are absolutely right to use the heavy gauge wire for the blue one. My rule in wiring especially in long runs like you will be doing, You can always go heavier but never smaller than recommended!

Bruce

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post #38 of 135 Old 06-19-2011
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Yep, and now I have the honor of pulling the red wire since there is no brake sensor on the pedal as I was hoping to tap into. Given the butchering done on my car by previous owner, I have to start from the hitch connector and trace that red wire to somewhere I have enough room to tap it.

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post #39 of 135 Old 06-20-2011
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OK finished the install. Went to Radio Shack and picked up a SPST 30A relay and the P3 was finally happy. Also found a nice place to hang the relay using the top mounting screw for the fuse assembly (getting mighty crowded in there).

So to confirm for anyone getting the Tekonsha P3, you will need a relay between the brake light wire and the controller.

I'll think about adding a switch as it doesn't have an on/off switch when I'm reversing (the convoluted way of pressing a button and waiting for it to disengage is lame).

The unit sits on top of the dash on the left hand just next to the A-pillar on two sided velcro - easy to remove when not used. The wires run up the A-pillar and come out just behind the unit - no holes or other harm done to the interior.

Now all that's left is finding the trailer

siberian

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post #40 of 135 Old 06-22-2011
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Man that relay is LOUD.... but at least I know it's working

Bruce, you need to find a switched port to avoid having the controller on past when you switch off. If you note Nick's picture of the driver's side (ooops left side for those upside down and in the UK, Japan...) fuse box, there are a couple of empty wired switched niches to plug a fuse in with jumpers. Try that.

Also, as soon as I get back from fishing will install a switch to be able to not only turn it off but also to be able to reverse without performing the "hold down for 5 seconds and...". Only issue is with the relay it's getting a wee bit crowded in there.

siberian

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