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2013 TDI Lux audio upgrade

27K views 31 replies 14 participants last post by  sanducrl 
#1 ·
Ok, like many other members on here I was totally underwhelmed by the stock sound system. I started out by replacing all the door speakers with some nice JBL components I got on sale. This didn't have much of an effect. A little bit more clarity, but still definitely limited by the stock amp.

I wanted to maintain OEM functionality and not give up any storage space. With those considerations in mind, I went with an LC6i, outputting to a Rockford Fosgate R600-5 amp. Hooking up the LC6i was a snap (Besides running the power cable). I used the speaker connector from a metra 71-9003 harness for the inputs and utilized the auto-turn-on feature to spare me the hassle of running a remote. The amp was similarily pretty easy. I was able to fit it in right above and forward of the spare tire. As you can see from the photos, it pushed the carpet/foam piece just behind the rear seats forward a bit, but it isn't noticeable. Further, it doesn't seem to get too hot down there, there's a small air gap between it and the spare tire cover, and it is sitting on metal, which should help a bit. The speaker wires were connected to a 70-9003, and from there hooked back into the factory connector to the speakers. Hooking this up was a bit tricky, there isn't much slack in the output to the speakers. I ziptied the connectors together to keep things from getting pulled/vibrated loose.

Finally, I built a fiberglass enclosure for a 10" sub. This was inspired by JayinMI's fine work on another thread. Now, I've never built anything from fiberglass before, and despite the fact that (as the picture below shows) it looked like a hot mess for most of the build process, liberal application of body filler, tons of sanding, and lots of patience resulted in a final product that, while not beautiful or perfect by any stretch, at least doesn't embarass me when I'm getting groceries out of the trunk. The fiberglass was bolted to the body panel with 4 12mmX25mm bolts w/neoprene washers and lock nuts. It's nice and solid and sounds great. No buzzing or other weird sounds, so I'm calling it a success. Until the thing implodes, which is probably a real danger considering my horrible fiberglass job.

Anyway, a lot of words, and not very many pictures. My hands were too covered in resin to use the camera much. If anyone has questions feel free to hit me up.
 

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#5 ·
Ok, the sound quality is a lot better with my current setup, but I'm still not satisfied. Over the weekend I am going to remove the LCi6 and replace it with an Audison Bit10 sound processor so I can equalize and put in a time delay to get the sub where it needs to be. Anyone with any experience with the Bit10 have anything to share WRT install and setup? Thanks!
 
#6 ·
Spend a little more and purchase the BitTen D... This will save you a little money over buying the bit ten with a separate DRC... The DRC, IMO, is key to keeping your sound quality where you want it at all volumes after tuning the system and gives you sub control and alignment memory settings. It fits in the ashtray. Tuning files can be shared… but it still comes down to your speakers, amps, levels, and personal preference.
You may also need to change the timing of the amp turn on/off remote out, (it's in the software menu), from the default to alleviate any popping when starting the vehicle...
 
#7 ·
I actually thought about getting the D, but the only ones I could source at a reasonable price were in Bulgaria and I was a little hesitant to jump through those particular hoops. Is there somewhere I can pick up a DRC in the states? For now I was just planning on using my laptop to get everything as close to perfect as possible - it certainly can't make things worse! Is the software fairly easy to use? Are you able to save profiles and all that? I've perused the .pdf manual a bit and it seems like a laptop should give you reasonable control, at least until I can find a DRC for a good price...

By the way, I was pretty brutal in my JD Power survey WRT the stock stereo system, and I would encourage everyone else who has the time to take the survey and give VW some feedback on this issue. It's a travesty that a stock Jetta sounds 3X better than the flagship model....
 
#10 ·
I actually thought about getting the D, but the only ones I could source at a reasonable price were in Bulgaria and I was a little hesitant to jump through those particular hoops. Is there somewhere I can pick up a DRC in the states? For now I was just planning on using my laptop to get everything as close to perfect as possible - it certainly can't make things worse! Is the software fairly easy to use? Are you able to save profiles and all that? I've perused the .pdf manual a bit and it seems like a laptop should give you reasonable control, at least until I can find a DRC for a good price...
Your authorized hertz dealer should have no issues getting you one... The bitTen D is only $50 more than the bitTen at the retail price... The DRC will cost you around $160 on its own.

Yes the software is easy to use and while you wait for your equipment you can d/l the software and use it in an offline mode.
 
#8 ·
Cb62fcni,
Maybe it’ll sound like nonsense in context of your project goals, but… After my Touareg’s HD radio issue was resolved (see long discussion started by Eugene-Dave on this forum) by warranty replacement of the radio/amp module with a new stock unit and a new firmware being loaded, I’ve noticed very significant increase of audio quality. Others reported achieving similar results with only firmware upgrade being loaded. Perhaps your Touareg has updated radio/amp which displeases you, but worth checking before spending extra cash on new amp…
 
#11 ·
CC, are you referring to the issue where HD radio was Mono only? I believe that I had that patch applied when I brought it in to the dealer for the 500 mile courtesy inspection at the beginning of the month. I know it took a while and they mentioned it was a TSB for the HD radio.

My biggest issue is with too much midbass and too much very high treble, and I suspect that with the distance the subwoofer is mounted from the rest of the speakers there's some phase issues. The result is a somewhat muddy sound with pretty high spikes in the upper frequencies. So that's what I'm trying to even out with the processor.

Xylene - thanks for the input on the software and the DRC. I don't have an authorized Hertz dealer nearby, I got the Bit10 from a racket out of Seattle at a really good price, but they didn't have the D in stock. I'll contact them and see if they can get a hold of a DRC.
 
#16 ·
It doesn't display anywhere, no. You'd have to ask the dealer to run your VIN to see if it has already been applied. There might be some way to pull codes if you have a VAG-COM, but I've no clue how to go about doing that. Read up on the symptoms of it on the other thread if you're curious.
 
#18 ·
Well, I finally got the Bit10 in, installation was a breeze, much easier to wire in than the LC6i thanks to the plug design. After spending an afternoon totally blowing my hearing by compulsively making adjustments at 75% volume I think I've finally got it all equalized out. The sound is now fantastic, having the ability to balance the time delay from each speaker really made a difference in the clarity, and prevents the sub from muddying out the highs as much. Absolutely recommend the Bit10, the software is fun and easy to work with, and installation is no problem. The LC6i was good, but not having good equalization makes it much more difficult to get the sound you want.
Again, its a shame that the Touareg doesn't come with much better speakers across the board. If you're a new owner, please give VW some feedback via your JD Power survey, hopefully they'll take a look at this in future tregs and save future owners the fun of week-long teardown escapades!
 
#21 ·
guys - I've posted this question in another thread if you can respond there:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f45/my-2013-toureg-lux-audio-upgrade-139161-2.html#post753113

For the 2012 LUX VR6, I just want to confirm, is there a Head Unit amp (and connections for the 71-9003) and speakers(connections for the 70-9003) in the BACK RIGHT of the car behind the panel?

Or is this only in the exec?? If there is not a connection in the back right, I imagine, for a clean install, the installer will have to pull off the head unit and add the 71-9003 and run the wires to the amp, and then run the wires back into a 70-9003, which connects back to the speakers.

Here is the install instructions I would like to give him, but only if the connections are in the back of the car.

1) remove the back right panel in the trunk to access the head unit amp / speaker connectors
2) disconnect speakers from head unit amp
3) hook in a 71-9003 wiring harness to the head unit amp
4) run the wires from the harness to the ARC ks 125.4 (has speaker level inputs / output converter and auto on)
4) run the amp outputs into a 70-9003 (which connects back to the speakers)

Also realize I need to run power from the battery back to the amp - I understand battery is under the front driver seat and there is a channel from the drivers seat, under the back seats to the trunk.

Please advise if I have this right.

Thanks!
 
#25 ·
Hi cb62fcni, I wanted to ask what JBL speakers you bought for your Touareg. Like you I had a local shop install a sound processor and an amp (for the life of me I can't think of the brand of sound processor), and added a sub. This helped but I'm still not happy with the finished product. I am also wondering how hard it is to change the speakers myself. I think I could do it. Thanks, Tyson
 
#26 ·
First, thanks to the threads (this one, touaric's, and xy's 2012 sports) - two of you answered my question privately.

Now I finished the speakers on doors. I do hit a issue on find a place for my amp. Tried to make live easier, I bought the helix blue B five (that takes speaker level input, no converter / extra amp needed.

Did not do fitting test until return period expired (my bad). The amp is (420 shipped)
Helix Blue B FIVE 5-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 320 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

It is 18 x 10.25 x 2.1in.

It is about 76mm wider than OP's. Therefore it does not fit the location (because of the center iron cube). I could only think out one option:

Cut the insulation under the rear seat and and have about 45mm of the amp intrude under the rear seat. This will not affect rear seat from sliding backward and forth, if I well center it, it will also not affect the two L hooks from top liner attach to the insulation.

Question for our experienced follows: with 60mm thickness, is it possible to bolt it to the right wheel fender (in front the factor HU location)? It was late yesterday and I was exhausted, only opened D pillar and did not open C pillar to access.

Other recommendations are highly appreciated, wife asked not to show it in visible space, and I hope it is easy access (thus I want to cut the center liner / insulation to fit).
 
#31 ·
Great info! I've been contemplating putting some sort of stealth box on the left side compartment of mine, but this is another viable solution so as not to take up any cargo space. However, not sure how I feel about cutting a hole in my trunk floor. :-k
 
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