Club Touareg Forum banner

Problem Taking Headlight Assembly Out..Hex Bolt Very Hard to Twist

61K views 95 replies 32 participants last post by  greggy_b123 
#1 ·
So I'm inserting the headlight crank tool as we speak into the hex bolt. I'm twisting it towards the proper direction of travel, as per the label in the engine bay, to "open" it, but I'm being greeted with quite a bit of resistance on my hand. I'm too scared to twist any harder.

First question. How many complete revolutions(if any at all), does it normally take, in order for the headlight assembly to partially push out? Maybe I'm just not twisting hard and/or far enough into the cycle?

As I wait for an answer here, I sprayed that area with some WD-40, to loosen things up a bit, in case they are slightly seized.

EDIT: Just realized I forgot to post this in the Problem/Bugs section of the forum.



 
#4 ·
Be careful, the hex bolt snapped on me with very little force. Turned out that it was seized on mine, and it took a great deal of effort to get it out. If you still can't get it out, take it to the dealer and let them take it out....they break it, they replace it.
 
#5 ·
Yup....time to put the white flag up. So much for enjoying my new bulbs this weekend. :( The time that it has taken me to figure out how to remove this f'ing thing, TO NO AVAIL, I would have already removed the COMPLETE bumper + grill to access the headlight assemblies on my B5.5 Passat. Ask__me__how__I__know :-({|=

It's two different situations on both sides, but with the same end result. Passenger side bolt won't budge period.

The drivers side bolt turns freely a bit(about 1/6th revolution), until it hits resistance....if you then apply more force, it spins a tad more with a loud SNAP/CLICK that you feel also in your hand, then instant resistance again, but the headlight assembly isn't sticking out any further from its original rest position than before. The same applies if I spin that same bolt towards its original "close" position . Loud SNAP.

Do you really think the dealer will pay for the bolts if they end up breaking them? They broke/snapped my water pump bolts into the engine block during water pump removal to change the timing belt. Guess who paid the majority of that f'up??? :x 3 hours extra labour I paid on top of the timing belt package price, they claimed the shop paid(absorbed) the rest, as it took more than 3 extra hours. B.S.

Time to go back to the drawing board. It's either dealer...find a new shop for my Touareg(long past over due), or figure out some kind of surgical procedure.



 
#6 ·
The snap you heard was the release of the mechanism. If you would have kept turning it the assembly would have moved out ward. It will only move out so far then you need to release the silver tab so you can pull the whole assembly out. It is a butt puckering ordeal until you have fully done it the first time, but afterward you will understand how it works.
 
#7 ·
Your first sentence gives(gave) me hope. But I did keep turning it after that first "snap" sound! Continuing to turn it, there were subsequent "SNAP" sounds to be had! I went as far as a second "snap" and stopped there. Should I go for a 3rd one and see what happens??? I mean, how many more snaps should I risk before it does finally release itself?
 
#8 ·
You have to keep turning the screw so it turns the assembly out of the bucket. It will only move out so far until you have to do the release tab. After you push that down it just comes out. When you put it back in you turn the screw the opposite way to pull it back in.
 
#10 ·
Ok, just came back from giving this an other go. I spun the bolt. 1-2...3 4 snaps/loud clicks, frustration struck, I went all the way up to about 20 snapping sounds, about 2 full revolutions of the bolt! I was even pushing against the headlight, while twisting the bolt, still nothing. NO characteristic changes I might add. It almost feels like some kind of "tooth" down there is slipping. That's how it feels to my hand. I did try to observe the first couple of toothed gears that you can visually see on the drivers side, if they were spinning as I twisted and they were. I sprayed with the straw some more WD40 deep in there, but nothing changed. Now I give up.

BTW, the passsenger side is still frozen stiff, even after letting it soak in WD-40 for most of the day. Maybe I didn't aim in the right areas with the straw? Whatever, I give up. Even if I did somehow manage to take the drivers side out, I'd have a 6000K on that side, and a flickering, yellowing, stock 4300K one on the passenger side.



 
#11 ·
No need to push on it while turning it out, just when putting it back in. It is possible the area the screw drive is in is cracked giving you that skip sound you hear. I am not sure why the other one would not move, there is not much to the system really. It is a decent design, but a poorly executed one. They made the bucket of way to thin plastic imo. I know my drivers side one on my 04 was cracked and I had to be careful when removing and installing it.

You are positive you are going the right direction when trying to get it out? Only thing that will happen if you take it to the dealer is they will probably break it when they try to remove it. At least it would be them and not you.

I still have not figured out how to get the T2 lights out. They do not appear to have any tool for them, but I have not read where anyone has taken one out yet.
 
#12 ·
......You are positive you are going the right direction when trying to get it out? Only thing that will happen if you take it to the dealer is they will probably break it when they try to remove it. At least it would be them and not you.........
Well, I am following the diagram in the engine bay for the drivers side. The one on the passenger side is all faded away, but I found a picture of one on the net(the vortex headlight removal write up), that has a picture of the passenger side. So assuming that the author of THAT particular write up, wasn't using a mirror, I'm assuming that it is frozen stiff literally.

All the cars that I have owned have been cursed with frozen bolts! Just last week, I tried to remove the license plate on my 2005 Passat(that I bought new btw), so that I could wash it back there, and guess what??!!? One of the screws were seized!!! ](*,)

Your new style headlights I'm sure are a totally different design period. Hopefully a much better one at that!



 
#13 ·
Yeah, there does not appear to be any tools needed with the new ones, but at the moment I have no reason to try to remove one to see. :)
 
#14 ·
Guys, as I really don't want to have to resort to the dealer just yet, is there any other way that I can gain access to the headlights? What I'm trying to say is, that I'll even resort to removing the front bumper, if it truly is an other feasible route to go about this.

Open to any ideas, even if radical. This is getting personal now..:chainsaw:



 
#15 ·
Guys, as I really don't want to have to resort to the dealer just yet, is there any other way that I can gain access to the headlights? What I'm trying to say is, that I'll even resort to removing the front bumper, if it truly is an other feasible route to go about this.

Open to any ideas, even if radical. This is getting personal now..:chainsaw:
It is not a Passat, so removing the front bumper will not help you. The only way to get them out is with that tool and the crank system. You have to get the assemblies out of the bucket in order to change the bulbs. Once you see one out you will understand how the system works. You can look on the drivers side, but I don't think you can access the bulb opening in the assembly to replace anything. It is actually a way better setup then what the Passat has imo. I cursed a lot when I was trying to replace bulbs on my wifes.
 
#16 ·
1/100 chance that it might be wrong, but might as well confirm it. Can someone please confirm what direction the sticker in their engine bay is showing them to twist the hex bolt, in order for it to "open"? The label on my passenger side is all faded out(drivers side is fine), so I had to use the picture from the Vortex write up as reference for the passenger side.

Counter clockwise to "open" on the passenger side, and clock wise to "open" on the drivers. Sound right?



 
#19 ·
Hex bolt

Take your time with it.Turn the bolt slowly and just a little bit and move the headlight every now and then.Sometime sand can get into the box that the headlight fits into and then makes the headlight stick.As you turn it slowly try to pull on the headlight lightly.It is kinda hard because the way the angle of light housing is made so try using one of those shelf pads that keeps things from moving around if you have that.once you break that grit up it should finally start to move foward on it own.Hope that helps some.
 
#20 ·
Well almost....

Take your time with it.Turn the bolt slowly and just a little bit and move the headlight every now and then.Sometime sand can get into the box that the headlight fits into and then makes the headlight stick.As you turn it slowly try to pull on the headlight lightly.It is kinda hard because the way the angle of light housing is made so try using one of those shelf pads that keeps things from moving around if you have that.once you break that grit up it should finally start to move foward on it own.Hope that helps some.
Just gave me a fresh new found sense of energy, as I was going to bed, and checked my email one last time. Worth noting that I didn't get involved at all today on the T-Reg until just now, close to 1:00 A.M....here's what happened.

So the WD-40 has had over 24 hours to soak in, particularly on the frozen stiff hex bolt on the passenger side. So I popped opened the hood immediately after reading your quote, SHOOK and pushed both headlights like a madman(literally), and started with the side(passenger), that has given me the most grief. The frozen stiff hex bolt on the passenger side. Well guess what!!! The bolt moved!! I barely even put pressure on it! I spun her a bit more, and wouldn't you know it, the headlight slid out a few cm's like butter!!! :D
So I pushed the headlight assembly back in, tightend the bolt back in the "close" position, sprayed some more WD-40 for good measure, and moved on to the drivers side, with some new faith. Unfortunately for this one though, it was still exhibiting the clickety snap/POP sounds, as I would spin it, like something(teeth?) was slipping down below. I can't for the life of me figure out what is slipping and making all that racket down there. Anyways, basically nothing has changed with this one. I tried pulling on the headlight, with the minimum edge clearance, between the fender edge and headlight assembly, allowing my fingers to hold on it(wore sticky plastic gloves for more grip), and as I twisted the bolt, right before it would go snap again on me again, pulled on the assembly at the same time....but nothing :(

I sprayed some more WD-40 on that one, closed the hood.

Tomorrow after work, I will give it my all. Interesting though. I never would have predicted this outcome. The side that I thought would be the ultimate problem, has now been solved, but the one that I figured would eventually give in to me, as it was never frozen to begin with(the hex bolt), is being the pesky one, and ultimately, the reason why I end up going to the dealer again. Well at least 50% is done. That's better than nothing.

Tomorrow is other day....



 
#23 ·
The one you have were the hex just keeps spinning may have a crack near the gearing of the hex. It is possible that one is just skipping the gear and not moving the assembly because of it. If that is the case you may need a new bucket.
 
#27 ·
Well I started doing this quite late again. Around midnight to be precise, so I didn't get to inspect and memorize things as I should have. Finished around 1:00 A.M. Meaning, that I took out the passenger side assembly, gave it a quick wipe down, installed the new HID bulb, also installed a new Philips Blue Vision W5W bulb thingy while I was at it, then went and studied a bit the mechanism in the bucket which seemed to be quite straight forward, and then went to the problematic drivers side, to figure things out a bit more. And I still couldn't :confused: There is the vertical main hex bolt(that we attach our tool to), and the bottom of it where it ends, has a circular toothed drive wheel attached to it, where the latter then makes direct contact to an other horizontally positioned gear drive, which then continues on straight into the rest of the assembly itself, that moves(slides) the headlight assembly out. Now the main bolt with attached toothed wheel is fine. The other horizontal wheel that it touches, seems to be fine, in fact it does move a bit when you attempt to spin it via the main vertical bolt. Moves a bit..but then it stops, jams up, and won't spin no more. So that snapping sound I was hearing before is indeed the toothed gears slipping one on top of the other. It's the second, horizontal one that is not spinning after a bit of spinning . The main hex bolt is doing its job, but its toothed gear starts to slip over the other one, as soon as IT jams up. I must also add that everything actually feels "too loose" for my liking in there. When I put my finger deep within the recesses of those two contacting geared drives, they both wiggle around quite freely. But something is not allowing the horizontal one to continue to spin, even if it is willing to spin freely...Either something is broken deep in there, or maybe crooked???

I wish I had studied the other mechanism a bit more while it was out, but I was too tired from long day to play around with this all night and morning, and got a little bit hasty with the installation.. Not sure what I'm going to do next. Maybe tomorrow take some long needled type of heavy duty pliers, and try and spin that other toothed gear, without the hex bolts assistance(since its teeth ultimately slips over the other one) and see if any muscle power will do it. But I'm feeling pessimistic all of a sudden.
I'm sensing some $$$ cash will have to be shelled out to the STEALERSHIP to solve this one :anger:
Time to sleep.

So CLOSE, but yet so far is how this all feels to me.
 
#24 ·
Yeti, Yeti, what little faith. You should have pinged me for the T2 headlight removal...
There is no tool for it. You need to swing the silver tab out and then with the palm of your hand give it a whack near where the parking/indicator light is and it will swing out. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and wiggle it out.

siberian - always at the bleeding edge... :cool:
 
#25 ·
Yeti, Yeti, what little faith. You should have pinged me for the T2 headlight removal...
There is no tool for it. You need to swing the silver tab out and then with the palm of your hand give it a whack near where the parking/indicator light is and it will swing out. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and wiggle it out.

siberian - always at the bleeding edge... :cool:
As I said, no reason to remove it yet, so not worried about it at the moment. :)
 
#28 ·
Yo VWDude, I know this may sound stupid, but... are you sure you're not futzing with the vertical/horizontal adjustment? Sounds in your description like the one on my T2... just checking here...

AndrieK, quite right old chap, did my share of remove/install/remove/install; must say that first slap was..."experience is proportional to equipment ruined" :cool:

siberian
 
#30 ·
Yo VWDude, I know this may sound stupid, but... are you sure you're not futzing with the vertical/horizontal adjustment? Sounds in your description like the one on my T2... just checking here...
From what he describes, I'm pretty sure he's turning the right knob. Sounds like the stuff I had to turn to get mine out. Also, he DID get the one light out, just having issues with the other side and the procedure's identical... :cool:
 
#29 ·
I broke my tool when trying to take my RHS light out at one point. In stead of using the tool, I used a small ratchet and socket with a long extension bar. (Can't remember the size but I think it was either a 6mm or 7mm socket.)

Maybe try using the same tools I did, and apply a little downward force on the vertical main hex bolt when turning to try and keep the geared wheels meshed. Maybe that's all you need to get it to slip out...?

This is a real bummer. I don't know how else you (or the delaer for that matter) are going to get that light out without breaking it out.

Good Luck... ;)
 
#34 ·
......... In stead of using the tool, I used a small ratchet and socket with a long extension bar. (Can't remember the size but I think it was either a 6mm or 7mm socket.)

Maybe try using the same tools I did, and apply a little downward force on the vertical main hex bolt when turning to try and keep the geared wheels meshed. Maybe that's all you need to get it to slip out...?

This is a real bummer. I don't know how else you (or the delaer for that matter) are going to get that light out without breaking it out.

Good Luck... ;)
6mm it is. I too am using my own tool, as the one that was already in the tool box, had a broken snapped off tip.

That is precisely what I'm trying to do!! Trying to apply downward force on the vertical main hex bolt, as I turn it, to try and keep the geared wheels meshed together. If I add too much force, I can't get anything to spin, and I'm not quite sure how much more muscle power to use, I'll give this one last shot tonight.



 
#32 ·
What you mean up already??? It's 09:10!!! Been up since 05:00!!! :D (Almost time for my mid-morning nap...)

Yeah the T1 lights are also adjusted using the same type of plastic gears, but they're quite well hidden. I broke some on both my headlights trying to figure out how to adjust the lights. Those gears are really cr@ppy.
 
#33 ·
Ah so you're 11 hours ahead of us. So get to work already! :cool:

Well I was just checking as I said the description looked exactly like the adjusters on mine.

Well I'm off to bed. Don't break anything whilst I'm asleep -)

siberian
 
#35 ·
Your bucket may be toast that it is not making a good connection with the bottom gear when you turn it. I can't remember already what it looks like to offer advice. I would look at mine, but I got rid of my 04 last week, so I can't really advise you on anything.
 
#37 ·
I still haven't been successful removing the drivers side headlight. In fact I called the parts department at my nearest dealer, for a price on a headlight bucket. I was quoted $125.97 CDN funds, which in all honesty, was expecting to be higher. I asked the parts guy to order me one, and the way I see it, by the time it comes in next Monday, if I still haven't figured out a way to remove it cleanly via the hex bolt, then I will be needing one safe to say.

New possible question now is, looking ahead, as far as a DIY goes on replacing the headlight bucket, how would I take out the headlight? Do I literally RIP IT OUT?



 
#38 ·
VWDude, you have two choices really. If everything you've tried has not been successful, you want to cut your losses? Then take it in to the dealer and let him futz with it. If you want to do it yourself, then yes, if everything you've tried has been for naught, I would disconnect all harnesses, make sure you have a clear field and ...
Problem is you may damage the assembly that the headlight fits into and the new one may not work after all.

My 2 cents? Take it to the dealer it can't be that much for them to take it out.

siberian
 
#39 ·
Problem is you may damage the assembly that the headlight fits into and the new one may not work after all.

My 2 cents? Take it to the dealer it can't be that much for them to take it out.

siberian
Not sure I understand the first sentence. I mean, a new bucket assembly(is that the right terminolgy? The dealer called it a "plate" :confused:) would of solved this a looong time ago. My only quelm and inner fear of telling the dealer "here knock yourself out, charge me later" is that others on this forum have reported $350-$400 charges, due to broken hex shafts. To me that is unacceptable, unless those reports were inaccurate.

Not being a Christmas scrooge here, but after the "snapped off into the block, water pump bolts during the timing belt change fiasco" that ran me a good coin for nothing, I'm still slightly peeved :mad: at them.



 
#40 ·
The bucket (plate) is what the head light fits into. If you don't have it in the unlocked postion I am really not sure how you are going to get the headlight assembly out. Did you fully remove the other one to look at how it works? If you do that it will give you a better understanding of what you are dealing with.
 
#43 ·
I may very well have to do this again. That is to take out the "good" passenger side out again, and REALLY inspect it, get to know it literally. Problem is, by the time I get home from work everyday(around 6:30P.M), it is pitch black outside. I'll leave this for this Saturday then. Using shop lights, and lighting up the engine bay like a Christmas tree, just ain't the same as go 'ol daylight.

Theoretically speaking, WHAT IF you can't get it in the unlocked position? What would the dealer do in that given situation???

Oh yeah, a new problem that I just discovered with that problematic drivers side headlight. Its self leveling automatic adjuster, doesn't seem to activate(DRL lights go up and down with initial key in the on position) on that drivers side, but do so on the passenger one ](*,) Also tested this out by raising and lowering the air suspension with both lights shining on the garage door. Passenger adjusts, drivers doesn't. ARGGHHH! Once I resolve the headlight bucket issue, if I haven't resolved the new auto leveling issue, time for a new thread in the problems and bugs section.
 
#41 ·
I also had one that was a bit stiff and finally broke on me during my last bulb change (there's zero warning that the gearing is jammed and you're turning it too hard after that last "click"). Rather than trying to find a replacement part or go to the stealership for repairs, I ended up using a set of vice grips on the remaining lower gear assembly to spin the bracket into the open position and release the bucket. I'm not sure how many more times the cheap pot metal gearing will take this kind of abuse, but I'm hoping I don't burn out too many more bulbs in the near future.

I've found my Treg to be equipped with a lot of innovative and well thought-out components but the headlight assembly definitely isn't one of them. IMHO, it's overcomplicated and could have been accomplished with a much more simple and reliable release assembly.
 
#42 ·
it's overcomplicated and could have been accomplished with a much more simple and reliable release assembly.
The accomplished this on the the T2. No tools needed at all to remove the headlight assemblies on them. Flip a lever, smack the light on the turnsignal side, pull and disconnect the cable.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top