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Paid $1500 for a used V8 04 treg. Soooo many questions. Headlights/ Fluids/ vibration

5K views 38 replies 8 participants last post by  Euro Skank 
#1 ·
I realize that I should have researched these issues before paying $1500 USD but I figured that the worst case scenario is that I needed a new transfer case and I would just part the car and make money. So can we please avoid the "Should have came here first" comments? :D

2004 v8, air suspension, 136k.

I've already done the standard maintenance stuff, pulled the FACTORY cabin filter and spark plus, new air filters, brakes and rotors, etc.

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Headlights do not work.... One High beam works but only as a flash to pass. One fog light used to work, two of them now work without me doing anything. Neither low beam works.

Are we thinking that it is the headlight switch, the stalk switch, or the D1S bulbs/ ballast?

Should I order new ballasts/ bulbs because the car could use them anyway? Can I simply order an aftermarket D1S HID kit? Full ballasts and bulbs for $200 or will this throw codes?

New combi switch? I heard VW passat switches are the same unit for $18. Is this true? If so, from what years?

I pulled a new stalk switch from the junkyard for $25 already.

Should I just replace the bulbs, ballast, stalk switch, and comb in one sweep to rule out everything and clean the slate?

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Trans fluid, I typically replace only the pan fluid as I was told by a Mercedes tech once that with higher mileage trannys with unknown service histories that it was dangerous pressurizing out the trans cooler lines. That you could potentially blow a trans chunk into your trans. He recommended simply a pan fluid flush. Any truth to this?

Can I mix valvoline max ATF with factory spec fluid if i only drop the pan, swap filter, and refill with the pan capacity?

Should I just flush the who trans with valvoline? or must I use VAG spec fluids?

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Diff fluids, anything special to know here?

I've done fluid changes on Jeeps and always was told to remove the diff cover and clean out the pumpkins with brake cleaner and compressed air. Then place a new gasket and refill.

Thoughts?

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Vibes in the rear 60-80mph

It comes and goes, but always at higher speeds. From all the terrifying threads here about differentials and such Im a little nervous.

The rear tires are heavily worn on the inside, as the PO did not believe in alignments. Also, the car only came with one thule rack which I had to order a new key for. Could this be causing enough wind resistance to make me feel vibes?

Thoughts again?
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Air suspension, How do I lock it in jack mode/ low/ high? I didn't get a manual, and the soft touch buttons are all gone.

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Thank you gentleman!
 
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#2 ·
I guess I can't edit the above.

I really do not want to read the 25 page trans fluid DIY thread. Im sure there are several opinions on everything and no concussive answer.

1. What is the gearbox reset?
2. What fluids are compatible with the factory fluids?
3. Who fills the trans running? Or should this be done turned off and at temp?

Thank you guys!
 
#3 ·
As far as headlights, fix the factory ones, don't mess with aftermarkets for a variety of reasons. You should get a someone with VCDS to connect to your car and then you can move the switch around and see if the switch is being read correctly to rule that out. Assuming you've checked all fuses? Bulbs?

The rattle could be the drive shaft center bearing going. Lots of threats on here so search.

Don't ever use anything other than factory recommended fluids. VAG spec only! It's not worth ruining the trans or diffs cheaping on these

Since you got it for $1500 you should be able to spend some money on it and still have a great deal. Don't be cheap with the required kings
 
#6 ·
I used the search function but came up with 25 page threads which are filled with banter and confusion. Is there a FAQ I can use to get concise answers on common stuff?

I planned to use VAG spec fluids. But is there any issue with mixing factory fluid with factory SPEC fluids?

Thanks for the prompt response! Ill have the headlights vagged friday.
 
#8 ·
It was originally listed for $5500. I called the guy and said "Will $4000 cash tomorrow get it sold if its as advertised?"

The guy said yes.

I went to the house at dusk with 4k cash and the guy wasn't there. He left his adult son there to handle the sale.

She wasn't lean at all.

1. Alignment
2. Dents
3. Broken interior trim galore
4. 30k overdue for a timing belt
5. Tires
6 drilled out locks on the factory Thule rack
7. Headlights don't work at all
8. Brakes
9. Spark plugs never changed
10. The car was filthily, straw filled interior
11. A grille that was kicked in
12. Stained interior
13. Drilled out Thule locks
14. Worn soft touch buttons
15. Broken CD player
16. Batteries dead in fob
17. Cracked tail lights
18. Blinkers out
19. Tps batteries all dead
20. Inspection out 4 months ago
21. Only one fog light working
22. Rear hatch shocks dead

So there I as after a two hour train ride to get to this guys house and the headlights don't work. I told the kid that I would have to get hotel room and I had $1500 cash. He called his dad and took the cash. :D
 
#9 ·
So it still might be a good deal, after you spend about $3500 +/_ on repairs just to get it functioning?
Alignment $65
Timing belt, water pump, etc. $1300
Tires $900
Brakes (new rotors, pads, sensors) $1200
Battery $165
Headlights are probably not a good connection from pod to electrical connector.
Let us now how it goes.
 
#13 ·
Mobil 90 SAE gear oil in the front and rear diffs.

Good how-tos on here for that.

Go to the VW dealer for the 850 cc bottle of transfer box oil and drain and refill. How-to on here for that too.

Sounds like the centre bearing needs doing on the drive shaft. Do it anyway.

When you did the timing belt you should have done belt, belt tensioners, water pump and thermostat......

Buy yourself a manual on-line.
 
#15 ·
You do need the tools. If you miss 1 tooth, do it again. You can rent the tools also. Hefty deposit, but no big deal. It is just a long bar that holds the cams timed together without moving while you replace the belt. You will to do the water pump, t-stat and tensioner while you're doing it, as noobytoogy stated. It all comes in the continental kit.
 
#18 ·
Golly, that's quite a collection - did you get the sofa as part of the deal?!
 
#20 ·
I didn't replace them as I didn't actually have a dash warning for the pads yet. But I'm sure they won't be more than $50.

Those are all the parts waiting to go on this weekend minus the brakes.

I seriously urge you guys to look at rockauto.com before buying any parts from now on. $700 for brakes is insane.
 
#24 ·
If they are Bi-Xenon lights, they will only auto level up and down and not side to side. 2004 Touaregs in Europe and maybe Australia had the adaptive side to side headlights.

The first touaregs in north america to get the adaptive headlights were the 2007's....although I believe a few rare 06 V10's had the adaptive lights as well. The adaptive lights on earlier touaregs are very obvious in that they are blacked out on the inside of the lens.
 
#25 ·
Correct. These only auto level vertically.

I was changing the hood light buld lastnight leaning against the headlight and the low beam came on, auto leveled, and stayed on.

These odd headlight housing connections might be the death of me.

I had so many random little bulbs out that I ordered 20-194 LEDs and 10- 41mm fuse types. Did the whole car lastnight. The only light I can't get working is the drivers side puddle light now. Oh well. Bigger fish to fry.

 
#31 ·
I did. One source says throttle for 5 seconds. Another says 30. Another says 60.

None of the 3 mention if the keep the throttle pedal pressed down when you remove the key.

And none explain why it is necessary when changing the rim size. Does the reset tell the fuzzy to start learning the new shift points starting on the next startup?

I'm having trouble with the lack of cohesion between all the DIYs. It's a tad confusing.
 
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