I bought a ProVent 400 and am planning to install. I have been planning to install forever, but with weather, kids, the wife, Holidays, etc. I cannot find the time, its sad. I have sized it up and all and figure I'm gonna have to fit the ProVent underneath on the passengers side wheel well. Its not gonna be up in the engine compartment, but a little below. I'm gonna have to insert 2 90 degree copper fittings into the hose from the turbo to the ProVent and a hose reducer from the ProVent to the tube coming from the cyclonic oil separator. the hose fitting on the ProVent is like an inch whereas the pipe from the cyclonic oil separator is like a half an inch. I do not think I will keep the engine cover on once fitted. Gonna be kinda hard to.

Will post pics of this feat once done.

 

Hedditch...I don't know if the 3.0 TDI has a PVC or it is called a PVC on the 3.0 TDI.....Attched is a Self Study of the 3.0 TDI engine. Pages 20-21 has diagrams of the cyclonic oil separator which I think is VWs version or and?or includes the PVC

 

The cyclonic oil separator should be doing exactly what a pvc does, just more efficiently.

 

My bad....I have a ProVent 200 not a 400

 

My interest is driven out of two concerns; (1) the accumulation of oil in the intake system, such as inter-coolers etc. as well as (2) the consumption of oil between service intervals.

I think this is at least worth the attempt.

Stuart..

 

Zagg, where have to run your oil drain line back to. The Catch Can I am looking at involves cutting a "T" into the oil dipstick tube just above the sump entry point.

Stuart..

 

Hedditch.....with the Provent the gases/ fumes enter the top, condense an settle to the bottom. There is a drain at the bottom to connect a hose to back to the engine. I'm not going to do that. I'm gonna add a length of hose and plug the end. Let it fill with oil over time and drain when needed. I won't be putting that oil back in the engine. I want to collect enough oil and send to Blackstone labs for analysis. I'm interested in if the oil collected is high in diesel and/or biodiesel, or what if anything. But I won't be putting it back in the engine.

 

Zagg my man, The way I look at it is the Catch Can is only a secondary to the Cyclone separator, which returns oil to the sump. On that basis retuning the catch can product would be no different. It also makes it a automated function which I can simply ignore in the future. On less maintenance task.

Stuart...

 

Did you do this to your car Stuart? Thoughts/tips/links?

 

I agree with you Stuart....It's just the scientist in me that, I can't explain it, but it won't let me return the oil, I will not feel comfortable putting the oil back in until I test it. I want to know why this oil is cooking off from the engine. What makes this oil chemicaly different from the rest of the oil that isn't cooking off................It's me, not you. I'm dealing with my own issues here.

 

Pro Vent 200

Hi

Anybody have any experience with this? On a R5? Install location etc..


(I just ordered mine today).


Ta.

 

Hey Zagg, what setting have you selected for the relief valve and the pressure regulator on your ProVent 200. I am planning to install two of the 200 on my V10 one for each bank, after I get my intake manifold and the flapper valve cleaned. I had actually contacted ProVent and they refused to give me any help, saying that they only work with the engine manufacture so I will be doing this at my own risk - What a snort!!

 

I got rid of my Treg Niner......I miss him dearly!!!!.......Anyway, I still have a ProVent 400 (I believe) that I never installed. Anyone want it for free? Please install on Treg and don't eBay it. First come first served. You pay for shipping. Send me a direct message.

 

PM sent.........

TonyB

 

Mann & Hummel Provent 200 Installed (almost).

Finally, I have installed the Man & Hummel Provent 200 I purchased 6 months ago. I made up a bracket to locate it at the front right corner of the engine. This allowed me to run the vent hoses ( 25mm / 1 inch) from the factory PCV to the Catch Can. Used silicone rubber hoses and stainless steel Norma Cobra Clamps which I hope will never need further attention.

The Original PCV line to the Turbo Inlet is a trap for young players. One end is 1" the other end is 3/4", something I discovered after I ordered all the parts I thought I needed. Bugger!!

The Parts used were:
1. Mann & Hummel Provent 200 ( See attached PDF )
2. 1.5 metres of 1" (25mm) Silicone AeroFlow Hose
3. 0.5 metres of 3/4" (19mm) Silicone AeroFlow Hose
4. 3x 1" Silicone 90 degree elbows
5. 4 x male - male aluminium hose coupler ( Aluminium tube )
6. 1 x 1" to 3/4" reducer ( Plastic)
7. 12 x Norma Cobra Clips C34/9 Stainless Hose Clamps.
8. 2 x Norma Cobra Clips C30/8 Stainless Hose Clamps
9. 4 x 1/2' hose clamps
10. Mann & Hummel oil drain check valve to allow opil to be returned to the sump at a point above the oil level.
11. 1 metre of 1/2" heater hose ( for drain line )
12. M18x1.0 Hex Headed Plug - Replaces VW Allen Plug (same size) covering crank shaft locking hole in sump ( see notes below)
13. Hose barb 1/2" (12mm) to attache to Item 12 to allow oil return ( see notes below )
14. Mann & Hummel 1/2" x 1/2" non-return valve

Additional Items Required.
1. Various Cable Ties
2. DIY Mounting bracket for affixing Catch Can. ( see my photos )


Mounting Bracket:

I fabricated from mild steel a bracket running as about 45 degrees from the right hand bonnet/hood gas strut mount point to the front radiator support panel. I used nutserts ( pop rivet style nuts ) and a little welding to make mine. By using two fixing points on the strut mount and one on the radiator support, I was able to eliminate nearly all flex, resulting in a robust mount. Have a look at the photos as they show it in some detail.

Oil Return Path , still to be completed

Prompted by a suggestion from Dragline1570 ( Thank you Mark ) is to utilise the access plug used for locking the crankshaft during timing chain servicing. This plug is an Allen type round headed plu located in the upper half cast section of the sump. By replacing this with a Hex Headed Plug/Bung, I will be able to drill and tap a suitable hole in the centre of the new plug and then attach a hose barb to accommodate the 1/2 oil drain line. Returning the oil condensate to the sump is a recommended solution by Mann & Hummel, however you must install a non-return valve in the drain hose if the return point is above the oil level. Without the non-return valve you will pressurize the Catch Can with air from the crank case. Not a good thing to do. This solution also allows removal without leaving a footprint.


Hex Plug For Oil Return

Hex Bung to allow drilling and taping.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exhaust...ng-M18-x1-5-stainless-steel/182883506908?hash=item2a94b4dadc:g:Ph4AAOSwPh5ZERMN

AeroFlow Hose

Silcone Hoses to suit..

AEROFLOW SILICONE RUBBER HEATER HOSE GLOSS BLACK / BLUE VARIOUS LENGTHS | eBay


90 Elbows

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicon...5310490?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=490765449171&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Hose Joiner Male- Male

25mm - 1" OD ALUMINIUM HOSE JOINER 75mm long - Silicone Rubber pipe tube alloy | eBay

Hose Joiner Reducer 1" to 3/4"

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Straigh...nt-Pro-Vent/272511756564?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Good work Stu, thanks for providing all the additional detail as you've made the job of getting mine in soooo much easier .

Looking at your installation pics, you fitted the filter more inboard than I expected, I'm pretty sure I can squeeze mine in now on the other side of the intercooler pipe alongside the Fuel Manager primary filter I installed a little while ago.

The main challenge for me will be to fabricate the bracket utilising the fuel filter mounting bracket I think.

I assume you have plenty of room to replace the air cleaner without moving anything.

thanks for sharing.

TonyB

 

I assume you have plenty of room to replace the air cleaner without moving anything. thanks for sharing. TonyB

I mounted it inboard to maintain access to the headlamp assembly. Also made sure it was no higher than the engine cover to guarantee bonnet clearance. Looking at your setup, will it allow you to service you fuel filter, with a catch can in front?

 

Thanks for the details. Will help me with my install. Can you provide the link to the no-return valve. Also did you have to make any adjustments to the relief valve and pressure regulator?

 

The non-return valves are from the Catch Can retailer, it's a purchase option.

The installation is without any adjustments. It's simply install and run!

 

If you return your radiator vent hose to its mount on the Airbox then I am sure you will have room.

 

Hey Hedditch, the long run to the separator, will it cause any problems as far as efficiency is concerned or it does not really matter and as far as the placement, can it be lower than the current PCV?

 

The hose run has little impact as you are moving vapor (Fumes). The only height considerations are (1) elevation above sump for oil drain line, and (2) clearance to hood/bonnet height. Height relative to the existing PCV oil separator is of no importance.

 

Oil Drain Point for Catch Can

The Crankshaft Locking Port in the upper half ( alloy ) oil pan, provided the perfect entry point into the sump for the oil return.

The Bung used to close this port is an M18 x 1.5 Allen plug, which I am replacing with an M18 x 1.5 to 12 mm hose barb. This is a fuel inlet port from a Bosch Petrol (gas) fuel injection pump. and was purchased from ...

Bosch 044 INLET 12.7 mm 1/2 inch Barb M18x1.5 Pump adaptor aluminium BLUE | eBay

This was then machined to ensure the overall length of the M18 thread was no longer than the factory bung (plug).

I have checked it for clearance on an engine ( dead one out of car) and there are no issues with clearance or access..

All I have to do is fit it up, which is happening tomorrow afternoon... so watch this space...


Stuart.....

 

Bosch 044 INLET 12.7 mm 1/2 inch Barb M18x1.5 Pump adaptor aluminium BLUE | eBay




Stuart.....

Ooo, pretty.

Is it working well? Did you flush out the intercooler as well or wasn't that of any concern?

It occurred to me that VW might have been relying on that little bit of extra lubrication so I consulted a revered oracle for his expert opinion but I mustn't have offered the correct sacrifice.

That Nikasil lining has me a bit spooked.

Others have said that there's no advantage to ingesting crank oil.

 

I have checked it for clearance on an engine ( dead one out of car)

It is amazing what some people have lying around.

 

With thanks for the excellent detail and inspiration provided by Hedditch I took the plunge and purchased the “shopping list” and now have a provent200 on my 2008 V6 tdi. I’m not recycling the oil at the moment . Catching it a drain hose with a valve. Will be interesting over time to see how much oil is collected.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Unable to post pics as I must be short on posts....






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Maybe after this one.....





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

This time.....?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Here we are on mine, all the good ideas from Hedditch.

 

Nice result. Now with any luck we both may avoid excessive inlet manifold carbon build up.

Merry Christmas

Stuart...

 

Finally completed....

Fitted the drain connection to the sump using the Timing Lock Port and the hose barb shown on page 3 (Post 26).

WARNING: As the Timing Port is ABOVE the oil level in the sump, you MUST !!!! install the Check/Non-Return Valve in the drain line.
Failure to do so has the potential to pump the contents of your sump down the throat of your car.

Over the last 3 1/2 months and about 2,500 km's we have accumulated about 55 ml's of recovered oil in the ProVent ( 30 ml's) and its drain hose ( 25ml's plugged). Which equates to about 300 ml's per standard oil service.

At this stage it's a little guess work, but I will do a service next week and then track it over the next service interval.

All in all, it is working well and amounts to only adding another minor service item. Hopefully avoiding carbon build-up in the inlet manifolds.


Another good outcome is knowing that the majority of my oil consumption between changes is loss through the PVC system and NOT defective oil control rings. Nice indicator of engine condition..

Stuart.....