Battery Drain, Kessy, and a Mystery Yellow Wire?!?! Am I losing my mind? - Club Touareg Forums
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Battery Drain, Kessy, and a Mystery Yellow Wire?!?! Am I losing my mind?

To answer: "Am I losing my mind" NO, that was clearly already lost years ago when I decided to buy a T1 Touareg lol

Car: 2004 Touareg V8 Air Suspension Non-Navi
Owned: 2 Years

Just last week I have fallen victim to the dreaded battery drain. Drive it all day, voltages are good, park it, voltages are good, come to it the next morning... dead as a door nail.

--Checked Driver Seat Ground, swapped battery (current one was only 3 years old), still same old story
--As best I can tell the alternator cable TSB was preformed, but not sure, when I looked it up it said it had no active TSBs
--Tried doing a voltage drop test on the fuses while tricking the car into think it was locked with the doors closed, nothing stood out
--Tried doing a parasitic draw test on the battery, seemed to be in spec during the hour I was testing it (.6 amp draw for a minute or so when pulling a fuse or activating something then drop to 0.02 amps if memory serves)

Now we come to Kessy.... about 12 months ago it started acting up, wouldn't unlock unless you pulled the handle, would immediately unlock itself after locking it with the keyfob if you were too close to it, then it just stopped working all together 6 months ago, and just left me with the keyfob only.... no biggie, I could live without it.

Vagcom codes, if you clear they come right back after reconnectihng to the module
--(when viewing the measuring blocks for the door handle buttons, none read as stuck on active, all work minus the passenger rear which does nothing)
--I also logged the buttons for 2 hours to see if maybe one was getting triggered.... not that i could see



Now all of a sudden I am having this battery drain issue. Its also somewhat sporadic, sometimes it will go 3 days, the 1 day then 1 day, then 3 days, its really weird. So I thought, well maybe the Kessy is finally playing a role in this. So I went to yank it out tonight so I could replace the resistors and MOSFETs using parts I ordered from Mouser. However in the process of doing so, I found this seemingly out of place yellow wire running from the Kessy up to what looks to be the cluster. Its ziptied to the bottom of the dash panel with new zipties.

In the "Push Button" install guide I dont see a yellow wire coming down in the same fashion mine is:

Writeup:


Mine:


What is this wire? Is it supposed to run this way?

It meets up with this thicker red wire, then runs up the dash to somewhere behind the cluster, (it got dark before I could investigate further)



So wondering what this wire is all about, also curious if anyone has some ideas as to the battery drain. I have read tons and tons of threads about it, and they all seem to point in different directions. Most are pretty old by now, curious if there are any newer "more common" fixes. Could it be the Kessy? Am I just using wishful thinking? Perhaps something else? Odd that it would just now start being a battery drain issue after not working for 6 months.



Thoughts, suggestions, input? This vehicle has eaten up a lot of my free hours since buying it (trans valve body, air suspension repair, etc etc), but I knew what I was getting into, however this recent problem has me frustrated more than usual. Nothing worse than taking a car somewhere and not being sure if it will get you back home when you go to turn they key, then you have to do the "knock of shame" and ask for a jump.
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post #2 of 14 Old 1 Week Ago
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Your yellow wire is the recall / tsb for the short range for the keyfob.

File Type: pdf vw.tb.57-05-03 Folding Key Functions Only at Close Range.pdf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickyt View Post
Your yellow wire is the recall / tsb for the short range for the keyfob.

File Type: pdf vw.tb.57-05-03 Folding Key Functions Only at Close Range.pdf
Thank you nickyt for the prompt reply and info regarding that seemingly out of place wire.

One mystery solved, but about that battery drain....
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Battery draws are a pain to track down. Compass Module, Radio Amp, Radio Antenna Booster and Kessy were all problems when the vehicle was still under warranty.

In the last few years, it has usually been the kessy. Usually the keyless stops working and you see many kessy errors with the VCDS scan.

If you have the antenna errors, you will need the mosfets and resisters to fix it.

If you start getting the shift to park error, then the black switch in at least one of the door handles are gone.

Anyway, this is enough to get you started.

Just looked again and spotted your kessy scan. Yep. New resisters and new mosfets for you. 90% chance that once successfully done, the battery draw will be fixed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickyt View Post
Just looked again and spotted your kessy scan. Yep. New resisters and new mosfets for you. 90% chance that once successfully done, the battery draw will be fixed.
Thanks nicky, lets hope you are right, as I have the mosfets and resistors sitting on my counter waiting for me to solder them on tomorrow. (I ordered extras in hopes If I have extras, maybe I wont ever need to use them lol)



It still seems weird to me that the kessy hasn't been working for so long but just now developed the battery drain. Due to that I was sort of thinking maybe the kessy repair was sort of a "long shot" at fixing the battery drain. But you have now got my hopes a little higher haha.

Is there any reason why the bad mosfets and resistors cause the battery to drain? Does it keep the kessy from going to sleep, or is their some other explanation as to why they are connected?
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The keyless goes into low power mode if it does not see any activity. Activity can be a signal coming in on a antenna, a door handle being pulled, the little black button on the door being pushed, etc.

We think that as the resisters go, the keyless module starts to believe that there is a active antenna signal coming in. The keyless then keeps watching the antenna "static" and stays powered up, quickly draining the battery.
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I used a more accurate meter on the resistors today.

Showed between .6 and .7 ohms resistance for each bank (group of three), so it looks like those are good (3 -.22ohm resistors = ~.6-.7 ohms... is that right?).
--Crud, now i cannot remember my scaling as i think it should have been .07, but I am assuming i was just off by one order of magnitude on the gauge display setting...

I didn't have the tools or knowledge to test the mosfets, and the surface mounting of them looks like they would take a lot of heat to remove. So instead of taking the risk, i sucked up my pride and I dropped it off with a well regarded local tv and electronics repair shop to have him replace the mosfets for me (I am not afraid to learn.... buuut i'll learn on something less expensive to replace haha).

I should be able to pick it up tomorrow and hopefully after plugging it in all will be well again.

*fingers crossed*
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I give people that advice all the time. If you are not comfortable soldering, find somebody to do this job for you. You still come out ahead, even after paying for the repair.

Especially those resisters, darn small and difficult to solder correctly.
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Little Update: AKA The Good The Bad and the Ugly

The Good:

Reinstalled my Kessy with the new Mosfets. Read the immobilizer channel (25 i think?) came up with the codes I posted in the first post, cleared them, rechecked the module: No Faults YAY!!!!

After sitting for 3 days with the Kessy removed, turn the key, fires right up. Turn the car off, check voltage 12.4-ish So no voltage drain with the kessy removed, that a good sign towards that being the culprit YAY!!!

The Bad:

Testing door handles, the driver seems a bit funky and slow to respond... hmmm... button works but capacitive touch is hit or miss, all others seem to work

When walking up to the drivers door with the car locked, the car UNLOCKED... without touching the handle... this "convenience feature" is not supposed to be THIS convenient.

Also notice if I lock the car with the fob near the driver handle, it locks then almost immediately unlocks... this is what it was doing for about a month prior to the kessy totally killing itself
--I test this around the other doors, and it only does this is I am within a foot or so of the driver door... CRAP seems like the capacitive touch is either always on or just super sensitive.

I review this post:
DIY Testing and dissassembling door handles

And see this information about unplugging the handles:

Quote:
Originally Posted by TUNINGBYAMG View Post
It's the harness coming through the window regulator at where i have circled in red, can't miss it

Also don't forget to turn off the AUTO UNLOCK function in your MFD, go to the comfort menu and door opening, scroll completely down and uncheck.

This is what I unplug (screenshot of window regulator video as I didnt think to take a pic of it)


Test everything, no more immediate unlock after locking it, no more unlocking when I am just close to it but not touching it, the handle no longer registers my hand, and the exterior lock button doesnt work anymore PERFECT, the handle is now disabled. YAY...or so I thought.

The Ugly:

I lock the car, give the driver door handle a pull to test that it still doesn't unlock the car... car stays armed but the door pops open... ummmmm...WHAT?

When I unplugged that connector it also killed the electronic door lock. So I can manually lock it with the key but it will not mechanically lock and unlock with the fob along with the other doors. (for clarification: all other doors will lock and unlock with the fob, the driver's just stays in whatever position it was last left in mechanically)

Is there a different connector I was supposed to unhook?? Is the driver door different from the rest? I am hoping I just unplugged the wrong thing, and maybe someone can point me in the right direction for something that disables the handle's touch and button features but keeps the electronic lock.
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Hmmmm after looking at a few pictures of the stock door handles... I think I was supposed to remove the black to purple connector. Everything else I had read referenced a black connector, thinking this may be my problem.



Hopefully those plastic door panel fasteners have one more round of life left in them. lol
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